| A DEMONSTRATION 
            SURFACE MOUNT PROJECTIt costs less than USD$11.00
 
 
  
  This project has been specially designed to introduce you to SMD 
            (Surface Mount Devices).Surface Mount is really not new. It started as far back as 1940 with 
            a hybrid circuit in a digital watch. A chip was cemented onto a slab 
            of ceramic material having gold tracks and film resistors. The LED 
            display was mounted in a similar fashion and the whole assembly 
            coated in epoxy to protect it before fitting into the watch case.
 Surface Mount has come a long way since this simple beginning and 
            this project uses the latest components in a TELEPHONE RING 
            SIMULATOR. It has been laid out on a demonstration board to give you 
            plenty of room so you can fit the components by hand.
 Normally, a circuit using SM would be too small and fiddly to build 
            by hand and couldn't be presented to beginners, but we have 
            attempted to make this project as simple as possible by spacing it 
            out and identifying the components so that almost anyone can put it 
            together.
 
                 
                 Complete Phone Ring project
 
                  HERE
                  
     
     
     
                  for large photo See how the components are soldered to the board,
 click
 Although Surface Mount is rapidly gaining popularity with large 
            manufacturers, it has hardly made an entry in the hobbyist area.The reason for this is two-fold. Surface mount components are 
            difficult to obtain at the best of times, especially in small 
            quantities, but more important, they are so tiny that manual 
            handling is almost impossible.
 When you see them you will see what I mean. They are so small that 
            the slightest puff of wind will blow them off the workbench. If you 
            have poor eyesight, it may be out of the question, but for the rest 
            of us, it's a challenge worth investigating. To help you we have put 
            together a kit, and when you buy it you will appreciate the 
            features of surface mount and the problems we had putting the 
            project together.
 The first problem we encountered was sourcing the components.
 We contacted more than 15 suppliers who sell SM to get details of 
            price, size and availability. From the information we collected we 
            had to go to 5 of them to buy the parts.
 Some had one item, others had a few more and all in all it was a 
            time-consuming exercise.
 But the difficulty in locating the parts was not the only problem. 
            The variation in costs was also considerable. Some suppliers had low 
            prices but no stock while those with high prices had plenty of 
            stock. Isn't it always the way!
 If we were in a position to buy large quantities, bulk prices would 
            have helped, but this is not possible when you are just starting out 
            and need small quantities.
 The other factor controlling the price is the value of the 
            component. High value capacitors and electrolytics are considerably 
            more expensive than low values. To keep costs down, it is important 
            to be able to design a circuit around the cheapest components. 
            That's why we used 1u for the capacitors.
 Now that we have done all the spadework, we want you to try Surface 
            Mount for yourself and put this project together.
 When you do, you will learn how to identify, solder and handle these 
            tiny components and see why we say "Surface Mount has not been 
            designed for manual assembly."
 The general purpose NPN transistor used in this project is a plastic SOT-23 
type. It is marked 1K. (it is actually a BC 848B)
 Here is the Philips range of BC 846,847 and 848 silicon planar epitaxial surface 
     mount transistors and the marking on the case:
 
  
  
    
      |  | Marking | Vce Gain: |  
      | BC 846A | 1A | 80v 125-500 |  
      | BC 846B | 1B | 80v 125-500 |  
      | BC 847A | 1E | 50v 125-900 |  
      | BC 847B | 1F | 50v 125-900 |  
      | BC 847C | 1G | 50v 125-900 |  
      | BC 848A | 1J | 30v 125-900 |  
      | BC 848B | 1K | 30v 125-900 |  
      | BC 848C | 1L | 30v 125 -900 |  Surface Mount has introduced a new range of case styles for 
     diodes, transistors and chips. Here is a guide through the maze of new 
     styles: SO means surface Mount. SOT is the case style for 3 or 4 leaded 
     devices: 
  
  
    
      | CASE STYLE | MEANING |  
      | SOT 23 | 3-leaded package |  
      | SOT 143 | 4-leaded package |  
      | SO 8 | 8-pin Dual in Line package |  
      | SO14 | 14 pin DIL package |  
      | SO16 | 16 pin DIL package |  
      | also SO 24 and SO 28 |  
      | PLCC 44 | 44 pin IC with 11 pins on each face |  
      | PLCC 68 | 68 pin IC with 17 pins on each face |  
      | PLCC 84 | 84 pin IC with 21 pins on each face |  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     THE SIZE OF SURFACE MOUNTSurface mount is the transition between the components we know today 
            and those of tomorrow.
 As far as designers are concerned, Surface Mount is only a 
            temporary, intermediate stage to assist in reducing the size of a 
            product to bring it on the market as soon as possible; while the 
            circuit is further developed and perfected.
 The aim of a designer is to put all the circuitry into a single 
            custom-designed chip. But going from conventional componentry to 
            final design is often not possible in one step. Sometimes it 
            requires a few intermediate stages, requiring custom chips plus a 
            few discrete components. To do this, it is convenient to use surface 
            mount.
 Products of tomorrow will be designed around a single dedicated chip 
            with only the need for batteries, switch and speaker etc.
 We can see this already with calculators, watches, LCD games, 
            cameras and many more brilliantly designed products. They contain a 
            single dedicated chip and nothing more.
 There are still a lot of other devices in the transitional stage and 
            these are currently using SM technology to reduce the size.
 As the demand for a particular product increases, the cost of 
            re-designing the circuit (and the chip) becomes economical. 
            Eventually everything is incorporated into a single chip and the 
            evolution is complete.
 This is the way surface mount is assisting designers to bring out 
            new products in steps and stages and as it gets phased out of one 
            design, another is taking on the transition.
 It's difficult to know how long surface mount will be around, but 
            just like everything else, it will eventually be outmoded by a 
            radical new approach.
 Until this time comes, there will be a demand for engineers to 
            design and work in this field and new openings are appearing all the 
            time. (Some surface-mount repair-work is also required in the 
     industry, but since this area of technology is so reliable, the demand is 
     very small. It mostly involves replacing mechanical components such as 
     switches and motors.)
 
 We really shouldn't be presenting a "hands-on" project for Surface 
            Mount as it has been exclusively designed for robot handling, where 
            "pick and place" machines take components from carriers, spools, 
            hoppers, tubes etc and place them on a PC board with really amazing 
            speed and precision.
 But if you intend to design projects in this medium, it's absolutely 
            essential to know how big the parts are, so that you can get some idea of 
            the space they occupy and how the board will turn out.
 It's also essential to know how the devices are attached and the 
            process of soldering so you can design the board correctly.
 Since normal surface-mount boards are Wave Soldered, it is important to place the 
            components at 90º to the action of the wave so they do not form 
            a shadow and prevent the solder from touching the pads.
 This also applies to placing components in the shadow of taller 
            components, and there's 100 other tricks you have to learn.
 So, if you want to start, here's your opportunity. There's nothing 
            like experiencing it first hand and if you put a kit together you 
            can at least say you have got off the ground.
 
 SURFACE MOUNT ASSEMBLY
 Since there are no leads on surface mount components, we do not need 
            any holes in the board (for multilayer boards, holes are required to 
            join one layer to the next - they are not for the components) and 
            the components can be loaded at impressive rates of something like 
            3600 devices per hour for a single head machine.
 To prevent them dropping off the board before the soldering process, 
            tiny drops of glue are used and this keeps them firmly in position 
            so the boards can be turned up-side-down for wave-soldering.
 Although Surface Mount devices are more expensive than conventional 
            components, the higher cost is offset by the savings in board space, 
            loading time and neatness of the final design.
 This is where Surface Mount wins hands-down. A Surface Mount project 
            looks much smarter and more up-to-date than a conventional design. 
            The size of the board can be reduced by up to 50% and this makes it 
            very attractive for products that need to be compact such as 
            cameras, video machines, computers, and almost any other item you 
            can think of.
 Some new chips are only available in Surface Mount and this forces 
            the manufacturers to take on the new technology.
 This is exactly what happened to us. Our new speech chip (our 
            solid-state tape-recorder project) is only available in surface 
            mount and this forced us into the new technology. The same is 
            happening in design laboratories all around the world and in fact, 
            SM is seeing a growth rate of 15% per year with much of the new 
            growth taking place in the high volume, high-technology area.
 The range of components is increasing too and already we have 
            Surface Mount coils, inductors, transformers, and other devices you 
            never thought could be produced in such minûte form. There is no 
            limit to the ingenuity of engineers. Eventually standard components 
            will be taken over completely and although this may take a number of 
            years it will certainly occur. We have already seen the demise of 
            the valve, the 1 watt resistor and many other components. It's only 
            when I see them in a museum that I marvel at the leaps we have made 
            in technology.
 If you think this won't happen to conventional componentry, you are 
            kidding yourself. These changes are as certain as progress itself. 
            They are driven by economics and economics runs the world.
 Surface Mount has arrived and is here to stay. Manufacturers can see 
            the savings in this area and are setting the pace.
 And, believe me, the pace is mind blowing. Apart from 
            miniaturisation brought about by surface mount, we have large scale 
            integration and multi-layer PC boards. These have combined to shrink 
            devices from desk-top size to palm size - with 10 times the features 
            and 100 times the power!
 Manufacturers of VCR's, TV's, automotive instruments, cameras, 
            computers and TOYS have all opted for surface mount as their 
            preferred form of construction.
 Why have we included toys? Because toys represent one of the 
            greatest driving forces in the electronics industry. Many of the 
            recent advancements in electronics have taken place through the 
            medium of toys.
 Talking dolls, whistling keychains, swearing keyrings, etc, have all 
            introduced the "dob of electronics."
 If you have ever taken a whistling or talking keyring apart, you 
            will find it contains a single chip mounted directly on the PC board 
            and covered with a dob of potting compound. Some of the earlier 
            designs used discrete chips and a few resistors but as the designs 
            were tidied up, this was converted to the "dob of potting compound." 
     This is commonly called COB (Chip On Board).
 The reason why manufacturers use toys as the proving ground is quite 
            simple. It provides a huge market that can be supplied and tested in 
            a very short space of time. This means the designers get rapid 
            feedback and the product can be updated and perfected very quickly.
 Speech chips have followed this trend. Early chips cost more than 
            $70 each while the latest are surface mount and cost less than $10! 
            You can buy 30 seconds of digitised speech on a keychain or in a 
            credit card for less than $8!
 The main problems with early
            chips was understanding the robotised speech. It was difficult to 
            work out what was being said. But the new chips are so clear that 
            you think it's a tape recording.
 
 
 HANDLING SURFACE MOUNT
 You won't believe anything I say about the size of these components 
            until you see them for yourself.
 The size is totally unbelievable and it may take a while to build up 
            enough courage to take them out of their carrier strips.
 Normally these devices are not handled by humans and it was never 
            intended for them to be touched at all. The fact that some 
            components have values marked on them is merely a result of pressure 
            from end-users.
 There is no real need to have any markings on them as they are 
            handled from start to finish by computer controlled insertion 
            equipment.
 Even testing and alignment of the built-up board can be carried out 
            by robot testers and so component marking is a bonus for us.
 A very small percentage of surface mount devices are soldered by 
            hand in short-run productions and in these cases the operator works 
            under a low magnification lenses or with the naked eye. To do this 
            sort of work you need to have very good eyesight, nimble fingers and 
            a calm temperament.
 Once the initial shock of the size subsides, you can get down to 
            organising your soldering equipment and see if you are going to be 
            able to physically handle the task. You may need tweezers to pick up 
            the parts and something to hold them in place while soldering.
 To do this properly you really need three hands but if this is not 
            available, you will have to use some other means of holding the part 
            while feeding the solder and using the iron.
 If you have someone that can help you, now is the time to enlist 
            their assistance. I'm not going to discuss the need to be an expert 
            at soldering as the sheer size of the components will keep any 
            absolute beginner away.
 However I am going to say that you can forget the cheap and rugged 
            40 watt soldering iron, the instant heat iron and many of the other 
            so-called electronic soldering irons such as the gas iron, soldering 
            gun and even the 700°F soldering station. They are all far too hot 
            and/or too cumbersome for this type of work. You need a soldering 
            iron or station with a temperature of 320°C to 350°C and a very fine 
            tip. When I say fine, I mean a tip that will almost prick you if you 
            touch it.
 This fineness is absolutely essential for soldering the pins of the 
            IC as the lead spacing is half that of conventional IC's. Some of 
            the other components can be soldered with a medium tip, but 
            certainly not the IC.
 We will not be gluing the components to the board before soldering 
            as the glue is very expensive and has a life of only a few months. 
            Instead we will be holding each item in place with a probe (such as 
            a paper clip or fine screwdriver) while tacking it in place, prior 
            to soldering.
 This is where you can ask for assistance by getting someone to hold 
            the component or add the solder while you solder it in place.
 Some components, such as ceramic capacitors, are not identified in 
            any way while those that are marked, (the resistors) require a magnifying glass to 
            read the numbers.
 We have placed the components in a carrier strip in the kit and 
            enclosed a note to let you know how they are arranged. Do not take 
            any of them out of the strips before they are required as you will 
            not be able to identify them if they are mixed up. The old motto 
            "look but don't touch" certainly applies.
 As we said in the introduction, this project is a TELEPHONE RING 
            CIRCUIT using a mini piezo as the output device and a CMOS Schmitt 
            trigger as the oscillator and driver.
 One of the outputs of the chip also drives a LED via a transistor 
            and this has been done to add a transistor to the board.
 Some constructors will say the chip is the hardest component to fit 
            while others will have enormous difficulty with the transistor.
 In fact, this project would be ideal as a soldering test for 
            advanced students as it will not only test soldering skills but also 
            neatness, placement of parts and identification.
 I believe a similar project was passed around a group of 20 workers 
            at a hi-tech plant with the requirement to desolder all the 
            components from the model and solder them back in place.
 I understand that all the components withstood 20 solder and 
            desolder operations without a failure.
 The fact is, surface mount components are extremely robust if 
            soldered quickly at the correct temperature. They are designed to 
            withstand a 10 second submersion in molten solder or other fluid, 
            but if you subject them to a higher temperature, you run the risk of 
            premature and permanent damage.
 
 ASSEMBLY and SOLDERING in INDUSTRY
 There are three types of Surface Mount assembly. The first is 
            placement of surface mount components to one or both sides of the 
            board. The second has both surface and through-hole components on 
            one or both sides. The third type has through-hole components on the 
            top side and surface mount components on the bottom.
 The different loading techniques for these boards calls for 
            different soldering methods and the most common methods are: Reflow 
            and Wave.
 In the Reflow method, solder is screened onto the pads in a printing 
            operation or individually added by means of a gun. The trackwork has 
            been previously protected with a mask to prevent solder creating 
            shorts and bridges. The components are then added and kept in place 
            with solder paste or tiny dobs of non-conductive glue.
 The boards are then passed through an infra-red or convection oven 
            that allows the solder to melt.
 Another method of reflow is to immerse the board in a saturated 
            vapour of a boiling Fluorinert liquid.
 The vapour, at the temperature of the boiling liquid, gives up its 
            heat, causing the solder to flow. In the wave 
            soldering process, the board is dipped in flux and placed up-side 
            down over a bath of molten solder. A wave of solder is created that 
            rises up to touch the board and complete the soldering process.
 These processes sound very simple but in fact involve a high degree 
            of technical skill. For instance, if a reasonably complex board has 
            100 faulty joints per million, the yield is almost zero and nearly every 
            board has a faulty connection!
 With surface mount, the soldering process not only has to provide 
            good electrical connection but since the leads do not go though 
            holes, it has to provide good mechanical connection too.
 The design of a surface mount board becomes much more critical than 
            a through-hole board due to the size of the components, the size of 
            the lands, the placement of the components and the consideration 
            given to heat stress both during and after soldering.
 This is an entire subject on its own and technical centers can be 
            contacted for more information for those who want to be involved in 
            this area.
 Along with the different soldering processes there are a range of 
            soldering faults, where the components have either dropped off the 
            board or begun to stand up due to a number of problems. The most 
            common fault is called "tomb-stoning" where capacitors, resistors and 
            packages stand on end after soldering. This results from improper 
            pad design, unequal solder mass, shadowing of the component, 
            misplacement of components, poor quality solder paste and wrong 
            soldering temperature. Fortunately, we won’t have any of these 
            problems in this project as everything will be soldered by hand.
 
                   Some of the faults due to soldering, insufficient glue
 and other factors
 
 
  An enlarged view of the board showing where the components are 
                  located.
 HOW THE CIRCUIT WORKS The circuit consists of 6 building blocks and the first is the 
            inverter between pins 1 and 2. This forms a low frequency oscillator 
            with a 1u and 1M + 2M2 resistor. It governs the overall timing of 
            the ring by creating an ON and OFF time. When the output is LOW, the 
            tone is emitted from the piezo. When the output is HIGH, the tone is 
            inhibited and this produces the silence between the rings.
 This oscillator has an equal mark-space ratio to give the "rings" 
            the same length of time as the silence.
 The second oscillator operates at about twice the frequency of the 
            first (this can be seen by the different value of the resistors as 
            both capacitors have the same value).
 The frequency has been adjusted so that it produces two highs during 
            the interval when it is activated. The second 
            oscillator does not produce two full cycles but only one and a half 
            as it is the HIGHs that are required.
 During each of these HIGHs, the third and fourth oscillators produce 
            a warble that simulates the 33Hz ring of the "bell." The third 
            oscillator generates the 33Hz frequency and this gates the fourth 
            oscillator to produce a 1kHz tone for the piezo.
 
         
         
           
             | Oscillator "a" (made up of the gate between pins 1 and 2 provides the overall ON/OFF timing for the 
            ring. When it is HIGH, oscillator (b) produces two HIGH's. 
            Oscillator (c) produces about 10 high's for each HIGH of oscillator 
            (b) and oscillator (d) produces about 40 HIGH's for each HIGH of 
            oscillator (c) to give the characteristic phone-ring. |  
            The output of this oscillator drives the base of the buffer 
            transistor and also one side of the piezo. The other side of the 
            piezo is connected to the output of two buffers in parallel and this 
            provides good pull-down capability when the left side of the piezo 
            is high.THE GATING DIODESThe only fault in the design of this circuit is the drive to the 
            left-hand side of the piezo. We should have included driving buffers 
            to give it the maximum swing and thus the maximum output. But since 
            we did not have any left over, this is the best we could do.
 When the piezo is driven from a pair of buffers on each side, it 
            sees a voltage swing of nearly twice the rail voltage and this gives 
            it the highest output.
 The tone is also passed to a LED via a transistor to give a visual 
            indication of the operation of the circuit.
 A 47R resistor has been included in series with the LED to limit the 
            current. It is essential to include a resistor as the LED drops a 
            fixed voltage (called the characteristic voltage drop) when it is 
            illuminated and the transistor drops a fixed voltage across the 
            collector-emitter terminals when it is turned on.
 The voltage drops are 1 .7v for the LED and .5v for the transistor. 
            This adds up to 2.3v and thus we must include a resistor to drop .7v 
            from the 3v supply rail. By making the resistor 47R we allow a 
            maximum of 1.4mA to flow.
 Without this resistor the power rails would be pulled down to 2.3v 
            every time the LED is turned on.
 This would cause (a) a very high current to flow through the LED and 
            (b) faulty operation of the circuit as the power rails fluctuate.
 The 1u electrolytic across the power rails reduces the impedance of 
            the battery and provides uniform rail impedance during the life of 
            the battery.
 A lithium battery has been used as it produces 3v so that we only 
            need a single cell to provide the minimum voltage for the chip.
 
 
 Between each of the oscillators is a diode called a gating diode. 
            Its function is to turn the oscillator on and off when required. 
            Here is how it works. We will use the second oscillator as an 
            example, as shown in the figure below.
 When the first oscillator (between pins 1 and 2) is HIGH, it is 
            equivalent to connecting the anode end of the diode to the positive 
            rail and this will have the effect of 
            charging the electrolytic. The diode will be able to supply more 
            current to the electrolytic than can be bled away by the 560k 
            resistor and thus the capacitor remains charged. This means the 
            inverter (between pins 3 and 4) will not change state and it is thus 
            'jammed."
 When the first oscillator goes LOW, the diode is effectively 
            connected to the negative rail and ceases to have any effect on the 
            second oscillator.
 By turning the diode around the other way, the oscillator will be 
     blocked or jammed by a LOW from the previous oscillator as the diode will 
     bleed away any charging current so that the capacitor will not rise higher 
     than about .6v.
 This is a very handy way of gating or controlling an oscillator by 
            the use of diodes.
 
 
                   An oscillator jammed" by a gating diode.
 A HIGH on the diode prevents the oscillator working.
 
                   An oscillator jammed" by a gating diode.
 A LOW on the diode 
            prevents the oscillator working
 
                
                  | PARTS LIST |  
                  | All components are surface mount Resistors
 1 - 47R (marked 470)
 1 - 4k7 (marked 472)
 1 - 33k (marked 333)
 1 - 560k (marked 564)
 1 - 680k (marked 684)
 1 - 1M (marked 105)
 1 - 2M2 (marked 225)
 Capacitors
 1 - 1n ceramic (102)
 4 - 1u electrolytics
 Semiconductors
 5 - BAS16 signal diodes (A6)
 1 - BC 848B transistor (1K)
 1 -  surface-mount LED
 1 - 4584B Hex Schmitt Trigger
 (HEF40106BT)
 Miscellaneous
 1 - mini piezo
 1 - 3v lithium cell type CR2032
 10cm tinned copper wire
 20cm very fine solder
 1 - paper clip for holding parts
 
 1 - Phone Ring PC board
 |  
            CONSTRUCTION
 The object of this project is not to rush,  but take it slowly and 
            produce a neat result.
 Start by creating a clear space on the workbench and get all the 
            necessary tools and equipment ready. Make sure all the parts are in 
            the kit by checking it against the parts list and lay everything out 
            neatly in readiness. Look at the carrier strips so that you know 
            what’s inside. Clean the tip of your soldering iron on a wet sponge 
            and open out the paper clip supplied in the kit to form a probe to 
            hold the parts during soldering.
 
            Take a little time to look at the legend on the board for the 
            position of each part and also refer to the circuit diagram and 
            isometric to see where everything goes. Make sure you know where 
            each of the parts is to be placed before starting as it will be very 
            difficult to remove something once it is soldered in place.Some of the parts are not identified so don't remove anything from 
            the carrier strips until they are needed.
 There are two methods of construction. You can start at one end of 
            the board and fit each part as you come to it or take one component 
            at a time from the carrier strips and solder it in place.
 It does not matter which method you adopt, however I suggest you fit 
            the IC first. We have not included a socket for the chip as it is 
            more expensive than the chip itself and they are rarely used in any 
            case - so you will have to be extremely careful, not to damage it.
 Firstly position the chip on the board so that pin 1 aligns with the 
            first land and make sure all the rest line up too. The dot or dimple 
            on top of the chip indicates pin 1.
 Tack the two diagonally opposite pins first so that the chip does not move then 
            solder the rest of the pins. Use very fine solder and take no more 
            than one second to solder each pin. You should stop after a few 
            connections to allow the chip to cool down as we don't want to 
            damage it.
 Now we come to all the micro components. This is where the fun 
            begins. Choose one of the methods suggested above and remove one of 
            the parts from a carrier strip. Drop it on the board with the 
            identification numbers upwards and use the paper clip to move it so it is on top of the appropriate lands and aligned squarely. 
            Keep it in place with the paper clip while you tack one end, and 
            then the other.
 The tacking process is done by adding a little solder to the pads 
            before the component is placed in position.
 After the component has been positioned, this solder can be reheated 
            to hold the part while the other end is tacked in place. After this, 
            you can go over the joints again, adding a little more solder and 
            make sure the connections are perfect.
 
                   The surface-mount 4584B IC
 
            Don't press too hard with the clip or the iron and don't move the 
            component with the iron as this will make it stick to the tip and 
            cause it to heat up too much.
 When you have soldered one end, wait a few seconds before soldering 
            the other as this will allow the component to cool and prevent it 
            getting too hot.
 This is important as the temperature of the tip of the iron will be 
            about the absolute maximum any of the components can tolerate and 
            the only way to prevent damage is to limit the soldering time to one 
            or two seconds.
 The reason for this is the junctions of the semiconductors are very 
            close to where the  soldering is taking place and any overheating will cause 
            degeneration in performance and even premature failure. The LEDs are 
            also very critical as the light-emitting crystal will lose its 
            output at the slightest amount of overheating. The transistor will 
            lose gain if overheated while the signal diodes are slightly more 
            tolerant however they become leaky if subjected to too much heat. 
            The electrolytics can also suffer considerably by overheating, so 
            take care.
 While taking care with the temperature and soldering times, you must 
            also remember the orientation of the components as they will not 
            work if placed around the wrong way. The placement of the transistor 
            is fairly obvious as it has three leads and you can see which way 
            around it goes. The diodes come in the same package as the 
            transistor and you must not confuse the two.
 The collector of the transistor is in the centre of one side and the 
            base and emitter terminals on the other side. Refer to the figure 
     below to 
            identify the terminals.
 
 
                   The pin-out of the surface mount BC 848 transistor
 
            The cathode of the diode is in the centre of one side of the chip 
            and one lead on the other side is the anode. The third lead is "no 
            connection."
 If the LED is a 2mm axial lead type, the cathode lead is marked with 
            a cross. Or if it is a genuine surface-mount LED, the pin in the middle 
            of one side is the cathode. This lead must be placed over the letter 
            "k" on the board.
 The piezo is fitted to the two lands marked "Piezo" and the leads 
            can be soldered either way around as the piezo operates on AC and is 
            not polarised.
 A single 3v lithium cell is fitted under two tinned copper wire 
            straps at one end of the board to supply power to the circuit. These 
            straps are made by placing the cell in position and bending the 
            copper wire over it and through the holes. They are then soldered 
            in position. The straps connect to the positive of the cell while 
            the negative makes direct contact with the board. The straps should 
            keep the cell tight so that it makes good contact with the board.
 
                   The pin-out for the diode and LED.
 When the cell is fitted, the LED will begin to flash and the piezo 
            will produce a sound similar to a phone ringing.If it doesn't, you may have a fault and if this is the case, you can 
            count yourself lucky as you will be able to go over the project and 
            diagnose the fault with the assistance of our "If It Doesn't Work 
            section." This is where you will start to learn about electronics 
            and the project will have great benefits.
 
 IF IT DOESN'T WORK
 If the circuit doesn't produce a sound similar to a phone ringing, 
            you will have to work out where the fault is coming from by reading 
            this section. There are possibly over 50 
            faults with a circuit as simple as this as any two components could 
            be swapped, any of them could be faulty due to overheating or the 
            board could have a short between the tracks.
 To locate the problem, here is the approach:
 The first thing to do is measure the internal impedance of the 
            battery. This is done by setting the multi-meter to 500mA range and 
            placing the probes on the battery for 1/2 second. The needle should 
            rise to about 200mA or more to indicate the cell can supply driving 
            current.
 Next, measure the current taken by the circuit by placing a piece of 
            plastic under the cell so it doesn't make contact with the 
            board. This plastic can be used as a switch to turn the project off 
            when not required. Measure across the plastic with a multimeter set 
            to 50mA (or 500mA to be on the safe side). The current should be 
            about 1 to 2mA and you can change the range to 5mA to get an 
            accurate reading.
 If it is considerably more than 2mA, you have either damaged one of 
            the components or created a short.
 Make sure there are no solder bridges between tracks or under the 
            chip by inspecting the board carefully. Next cut the negative track 
            going to pin 7 of the chip so that half the circuit is removed. 
            Re-measure the current to see if the remaining parts contain the 
            fault. Refer to the circuit diagram to identify which components are 
            in this section and if the fault persists, make another cut in the 
            trackwork and "home-in" on the fault. This will save you removing 
            any of the parts and testing them, as soldering and desoldering will 
            create more problems than it solves.
 If this doesn't find the fault, you will have to read on. In this 
            type of project we start at the back-end and work to the front. This 
            is because we have a LED and piezo to act as output devices to let 
            us know what is happening and the extent of the fault.
 We start with the LED and its driver transistor. If the LED does not 
            light, the fault could lie in either of these components or the 
            chip.
 To locate the problem, take a voltage reading at output pin 12 of 
            the chip.
 The needle of the multimeter should flicker to correspond to the 
            ringing of the circuit and if not, the fault will lie in the chip or 
            one of the four oscillators.
 If the needle flickers, go to the collector of the transistor. Here, 
            you will see the needle sit at slightly above 1v (due to the 
            characteristic voltage drop across the LED plus a very small drop 
            across the resistor) and fall to slightly less than 1v when the 
            circuit produces ring pulses. If the LED does not produce a glow 
            when this occurs, it has either been damaged or is around the wrong 
            way. If the needle does not flicker at the collector, the transistor 
            has been damaged.
 You can also measure the voltage at the base of the transistor. The 
            reading you will get will only be about 100mV as the needle will not 
            have time to rise to 650mV during the ring. To get an accurate 
            indication of the signal you must measure it with a CRO.
 If the sound from the piezo is not similar to that of a phone 
            ringing, the fault will lie in one or more of the 4 oscillators.
 Start at the first oscillator, between pins 1 and 2. Place the 
            positive probe on pin
            2 and set the multimeter to a low voltage. The needle will go high 
            for about 1 second and low for the same duration. When the output is 
            LOW, a tone is emitted from the piezo. If the output does not swing 
            up and down, measure the voltage across the power rails (pins 7 and 
            14) of the chip.
 If voltage is present, and the current consumption is about 2mA, the 
            fault may lie in a damaged Schmitt inverter, a leaky 1u capacitor 
            or an open 2M2 or 1M resistor.
 You cannot measure across the 1u while the circuit is operating as 
            the resistance of your meter will prevent it charging to 2/3 of rail 
            voltage and the oscillator will not change state.
 The only thing you can do is measure the output voltage. If it is 
            HIGH, the input will be low (assuming the gate is working) and one 
            of the feedback resistors may be open circuit. Set your multimeter 
            to 10v range (assuming a 20k/v meter) and place the probes firstly 
            across the 2M2 resistor and then across the 1M. If you detect a very 
            slight movement of the needle, the circuit is working and the 
            resistance of the meter is taking the place of the resistor. 
            Replacing the appropriate resistor will fix the fault.
 If the circuit produces a ring-ring-ring-ring without a pause, the 
            gating diode between pins 2 and 3 may be faulty or not making 
            contact.
 If the output of the first oscillator is correct, the output of the 
            second can also be detected on a multimeter by probing pin 4. This 
            pin will give two High's during the ring tone and if a fault exists, 
            you can diagnose it in a similar manner to the first gate.
 The output of the third and fourth oscillators are more difficult to 
            detect on a multimeter as the frequency is too high for the needle 
            to respond.
 The solution is to remove the piezo from its output terminals and 
            place it between pin 6 and the negative rail. Here you will hear a 
            series of clicks to correspond to the 33Hz oscillator, gated by 
            oscillator (b).
 Placing the piezo between pin 12 and the negative rail will produce 
            the ring sound except the output will be lower than when connected 
            to the output terminals.
 If you find one of the inverters has been damaged, you can use the 
            one between pins 8 and 9. You will have to do a little rewiring, 
            however if the chip is not drawing excessive current due to it being 
            damaged, the change can be made. This just about covers everything 
            and the project should be working perfectly by now - I hope so.
 
 CONCLUSION
 If you did not have any success, the best solution is to buy another 
     kit and start again. The main problem will be soldering. Next time you will 
     learn from your mistakes and the project will work first go. For those who 
     have tasted the joys of success, try some of our other projects using 
     surface-mount technology.
 
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